| SYMPTOMS |
ISSUE |
SOLUTION |
| Fathom epoxy cured yellow, not clear |
- The epoxy was poured too thick, and excessive heat from the curing reaction turned it yellow.
- Methods to help dissipate heat during the cure reaction were not successful.
- Fathom was improperly stored for an extended period of time and the hardener took an exceptionally yellow cast.
|
- Do not use epoxy that has yellowed from improper storage, on any projects that require a clear appearance.
- Pouring Fathom epoxy too thickly generates excessive heat during the curing reaction. If the epoxy reaches roughly 170-180°F or warmer during the reaction, it may take a permanent yellow cast. As the heat increases beyond this temperature, so does the yellowing.
- Only pour Fathom to the thicknesses specifed in the Technical Data Sheet, specified by the volume of epoxy being mixed and poured.
- If methods are in place to help dissipate heat once the epoxy reaches the gelation period, take extra care to monitor the temperature of the cure and take precautions to control the temperature.
|
| Fathom did not cure with a smooth or level surface |
- The epoxy was poured too thick, and excessive heat from the curing reaction turned it yellow.
- Contaminants
- The epoxy was being worked during the gel stage of the cure.
|
- Mechanically remove any epoxy that is deemed unacceptable, and reapply, or heavily sand the surface until it is smooth, and reapply.
- Heavily sand, then wet sand, then buff the surface until it is smooth and glossy.
- Start the project over, taking extra care to remove any potential contaminants, and do not exceed the recommended pour depths of the epoxy. Do not attempt to work the epoxy past the posted working time.
|
| Fathom cured with cracks |
- The epoxy was poured too thick, and excessive heat from the curing is showing symptoms of shrinkage and cracking.
|
- Redo the project, or mechanically remove any cracked epoxy and reapply Fathom, taking better care not to pour the epoxy thicker than advised.
- Only pour Fathom to the thicknesses specifed in the Technical Data Sheet, specified by the volume of epoxy being mixed and poured.
|
| Epoxy did not cure in some areas |
- Poorly mixed epoxy
- Contaminant or incompatible material was added to the epoxy.
|
- Wait an extra 12 hours to see if the epoxy finishes curing normally.
- Remove any epoxy that has not fully cured. Clean the substrate completely and remove any possible contamination.
- Reapply Fathom, as desired.
- Ensure that Fathom is mixed at the proper ratio of epoxy resin to hardener, and take extra care to prevent any potential contaminants from affecting the epoxy's cure.
|
| Fathom epoxy did not cure, still soft and tacky |
- Improper mix ratio of epoxy resin and hardener.
- Contaminant or incompatible material was added to the epoxy.
- Epoxy resin and hardener were poorly mixed.
- The curing reaction has not occurred yet.
|
- Fathom epoxy may take 6-24 hours (or longer) for the curing reaction to begin. Wait at least 24 hours, ensuring that the ambient temperature is within the specified range for curing the epoxy.
- If the Fathom has not increased in hardness or cured, remove any Fathom that is not cured and start over.
- Take extra care to ensure Fathom is always mixed at the proper ratio.
- Once Fathom has reached its peak exotherm in its reaction, the ambient temperature can be increased up to 90°F to help accelerate the rest of the cure process and hardening.
|
| Fathom epoxy seeped out of the corners or cracks of a mold |
|
- Fathom is a very, very low-viscosity, slow-curing epoxy. It will find any pinhole leaks in a mold and leak out. Seal molds thoroughly with tape, silicone, hot glue, or another form of sealant prior to pouring Fathom into the mold.
|
| Cured Fathom would not come out of the mold |
|
- Insufficient or complete lack of a mold release agent will make cured Fathom difficult, or virtually impossible, to remove from a mold. Use mold release agents in all molds, regardless of their material. This will preserve the useful life of any molds used.
- When applying a mold release paste wax, always apply and polish out 4-5 coats of wax.
|
| Colorants/dyes/tints did not achieve the desired finish, or settled |
- Test sample was not performed to observe the final product.
- Tints, dyes, or pigments that do not go into solution with the liquid epoxy may float or sink depending on their density relative to that of the epoxy. Fathom has a very low viscosity when mixed. The low viscosity allows any added materials that do not go into solution, that have a different density than the epoxy, to settle up or down at a faster rate than viscous epoxies.
|
- Always perform a test sample of Fathom with any tints or colorants prior to using them on the final project, to see if the desired results are achieved.
- Pigments and special effects that do not mix into the epoxy in a liquid form, such as mica powder pigments, may settle or float to the surface of the epoxy if they are added too soon. These types of pigments or additives can be added as close to the gelation stage as possible (when the temperature of the mixed epoxy increases to roughly 85-90°F but it is still a low-viscosity liquid).
|
